The Complete Guide to Corfu

The rich and varied island of Corfu offers a host of opportunities for those with an interest in the more active pursuits such as walking, swimming, cycling, horse riding or water sports. 

It has a varied and lively nightlife, and it’s also a perfect place to just sit by the pool, on the balcony or on the beach doing absolutely nothing!

Being the most northerly of the Ionian Islands Corfu experiences high annual rainfall resulting in a wonderful year-long array of wildflowers and vegetation. Said to be one of the greenest of the Greek islands, Corfu boasts a wide and colourful variety of fruits, nuts and vegetables. Lemons, oranges, kumquats, grapes, olives and fennel grow in abundance.

When combined with the scents of wildflowers they make a wonderful aromatic cocktail!

Corfu town of ‘Kerkyra’, the island’s capital, combines elegance and sophistication with tradition. A maze of beautiful back streets opening out here and there into little ‘plateias’ (squares) lead us into the heart of the old town with its smart shops and cafés; a joy to explore day or night.

A Brief History

Since ancient times, Corfu has been known as a place of beauty, culture and hospitality. In his ‘Argonautics’ Appolonius of Rhodes mentioned that Jason and the Argonauts took refuge in Corfu to evade the pursuing Colchs. 

In ‘The Odyssey’ Homer describes how Odysseus was cast ashore and discovered by Nafsika, daughter of King Alcinoos at a time when the inhabitants were of Phaecean origin. Even Alexander the Great, charmed by the beauty of the island, gave it his protection for some thirty years during the 3rd century B.C.

The island’s situation on trade and invasion routes to and from the Balkans and the Levant, has given Corfu her fair share of troubles.

Between 735 – 435 B.C. under the Corinthian political system, Corfu became a vigorous power with a strong naval and economic force, thriving peacefully for 300 years until Corcyrans came into conflict with Corinth itself. Athens sided with Corfu, a move that sparked off the Peloponnese war.

There followed a time of changing fortunes. Corfu became part of an Athenian alliance and subsequently fell into the hands of Philip of Macedonia (Alexander the Great’s father), Sparta, cv  Syracuse and Illyria before being ceded to Rome in 229 B.C.

The first Greek territory to fall under Roman rule, Corfu, supplied Rome with men and ships for its wars and despite persecution, Christianity was introduced. In 337 A.D. the Roman Empire split and in 395 Corfu was ceded to the Byzantine Empire.

Corfu remained nominally Byzantine for eight centuries, and there is still evidence of the occupation here, particularly in churches and church paintings. Being one of the most distant outposts of the Byzantine Empire, it was, however, constantly subject to raids by Vandals, Goths (led by Totila, an event which led to relocation to the ancient city for defensive purposes to the old fort), by Saracens and Normans, various Frankish Knights and the Venetians. In 1214 with Byzantium once more in control, Corfu became part of the Desperate of Epirus, at that time one of the three independent Greek states.

The use of the Greek language in the Byzantine Empire led to the church splitting from the control of the Pope and coming under the auspices of the Patriarch in Constantinople. The Greek world opposed the Latin and so the Orthodox faith was born.

In 1267 The King of Sicily seized the island and divided it into the four bailiwicks, Gyros, Oros, Mesis and Lefkimi. Then, following increased and constant threats from Turkey the Council of Corfu asked for the protection of Venice. So it was that on 20th May 1386, the flag of St. Mark was raised on the Old Fortress and was to remain there until 1797.

The four centuries of Venetian rule determined the character of Corfu as we know it today. The Italians offered security but in return demanded total submission. Architecture, music, folklore, even dialect reflect their 370-year presence. They encouraged the planting of olives and developed the agriculture of the area and, for the privileged, they brought with them a rich cultural life. 

Despite the strength of the Venetians, Corfu was still the subject of repeated attacks by Genoese pirates and the Turks; this constant fear is one of the reasons the oldest villages are to be found high in the mountains often invisible from the sea, and not easily accessible over land.

In 1797, Napoleon conquered Venice and recognising how important the Ionian islands were, sent a French Fleet over. At first the French were welcomed, the locals fired by the ideas of the French Revolution and eager to gain liberation from the ‘cultured’ but repressive Italians. The French however, proved no less authoritative and their rule was short-lived.

In 1799, Corfu was taken by the Russians and Turks, concerned by French territorial expansion. Under Russian protection, Corfu and the other Ionian islands joined to create the independent Septinsular Republic, where aristocracy was given total control, almost leading to civil war between merchants and peasants.

In 1807, Tzar Alexander ceded the islands back to Napoleon. During this second period of French rule, the Ionian islands’ school system and printing presses were established. The ‘Liston’ was also built along the same lines and at the same time as the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Napoleon was defeated in 1814 by the British and the last notable period of civic construction began. The Palace of Saint George and Michael, the Ionian Academy and Mon Repos as well as other amenities were built.

The high commissioner, Sir Thomas Maitland, nicknamed ‘The Abortion’ by the Greeks, was seen by many as being dictatorial and denying any political role for Corfu’s educated and middle class. He did, however, help rebuild the economy of the island and for the first time the islanders could afford to build much needed roads, aqueducts and other public works.

The Ionian Academy, the first Greek University, was established and most importantly, Greek became the official language. The British remained in Corfu until 1864 when Queen Victoria offered the Ionian islands back to Greece. There is a monument of this union in the park near the bandstand.

During World War II, Corfu was occupied by the Italians and Germans and was severely bombed by the Germans, destroying several of the most distinguished building, including the Ionian Academy, library and the Municipal Theatre (a theatre that rival la Scala). Most, if not all of the town’s large Jewish population who had found refuge here over the centuries were arrested and shipped off to Nazi camps. 

Immediately after the war, Corfu shared the fortunes of Greece racked by civil war and poverty resulting in mass emigration. This trend continued until the 1960’s and 1970’s when development in tourism gave a new impetus to the economic and social life of Greece.

The island’s attractions to tourists was already evident by the turn of the century. It was on the lists of those who embarked upon the ‘Grand Tour’

– including Lord Byron, and it was the spot chosen by the Empress Sissi for her Achilleion Palace – built in 1890 as a refuge from the intrigues of the Hapsburg Court. Through the years the island’s natural beauty, wonderful beaches and elegant architecture have attracted more and more people, including of course the Durrell family, who made Corfu their home, immortalizing the island in their writings.

By the 1960’s the “delectable landscape” of Corfu had attracted some of the first of the ‘mass market’ tourists to visit Greece. Sadly, many seaside villages and beaches quickly turned into not particularly attractive ‘resorts’. This gained Corfu a tainted reputation that she most certainly does not deserve. These ‘black spots’ are few and far between and if you venture even slightly off the beaten track you will find an island brimming with history, culture and beauty.

Corfu Town

No visit to Corfu is complete without a trip to the island’s capital. Said to be one of the most vibrant and cosmopolitan areas outside Athens,

Corfu town is an absolute delight. Undoubtedly chic and trendy, it comes as a wonderful surprise when you venture beyond the facade of the elegant esplanades and squares, beyond the sophistication of the café bars and the modern shops and into the Old Quarter – a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets, lanes and alleyways overshadowed by tall 18th century buildings.

Liston might remind you of Rue de Rivoli in Paris

The Venetian influence is certainly strong but the French and English styles are also much in evidence. The Parisian style Liston is an ideal spot at which to enjoy a drink – its prime position in the town providing ring side seats for watching the well-heeled on their daily ‘volta’.

The Palace of St. Michael and St. George is regarded by some as the finest example of the Regency style outside Britain. And let’s not forget the other great British legacy – the cricket pitch!

Kavos

Despite its reputation as a party resort, Kavos on the south coast, remains at the very least the resort with everything and probably one that the kids will love – especially if they want a change from Greek salads and souvlaki! As well as loud music there are water sports, bungee jumping, and so on. There is also a good beach here.

Kassiopi

Fishing boats and Taverna’s line Kassiopi Village

Kassiopi is where the Roman Emperor, Tiberius had his holiday home, is now a bustling resort with good shops and supermarkets, a ruined castle, and five pebble beaches. There is a wide choice of international cuisine available here, from Mexican through to Chinese, as well as some very good traditional Greek tavernas, of course!

Lefkimi

Lefkimi on the southeast coast is the island’s second largest town and an alternative ferry port for the mainland and Paxos. Despite its close proximity to the major resort of the south of the island, this is a truly traditional Greek town with shaded plateia, interesting churches, and a refreshing lack of development.

In spite of the presence of the busy port, there is just one café serving the lorry drivers awaiting the boats. Likewise, the shops in the town are very much unaffected by tourism and you can find many everyday items in the range of shops available.

Pelekas

The magnificent hilltop situation of this pretty village retains much of its original charm. Kaiser Wilhelm even built his famous ‘Throne’ – a small viewing tower on top of this wooded mountain – so that he could admire the dramatic western coastline and its stupendous sunsets.

Benitses

This resort on the south coast suffers from a slightly notorious past but is undergoing something of a quality change and re-establishing its traditional roots. The north end of the village is much quieter and more interesting, with a rather unusual shell museum boasting more than 2000 shells!

There are also some limited Roman remains. Just south, though, despite the other highly developed resorts, there are a few little gems such as: Ano Moraitika and Boukari.

Kanoni

Bordering Corfu town, Kanoni is where you fill find the much-photographed monastery of Vlacherna and Pontikonissi (Mouse Island). What the pictures don’t show you is that these are immediately next to the airport runway. Nonetheless, it is a beautiful spot with a little boat making trips across to the island with its tiny church.

Kanoni and Mouse Island and the little church of Panagia Vlacherna

Agios Markos

This pretty little village is situated just above Pyrgi on the east coast. The snack bars – including the one that sells ‘local moonjuice’ – offer fantastic views out beyond the resort of Ipsos.

The pretty 17th century Church of St. Mercurios is the oldest Byzantine church in Corfu, and at the top of the village, the interior of the 17th century Church of Pantokrator is almost entirely covered in frescoes.

Spartilas

On the same stretch of coast, a detour to the village of Spartilas will again give great views across Corfu town as well as a lesson in driving carefully on Greek roads. The bar in the colorful square proffers some the best local wine you will taste in Corfu. Continue through this little village and you will find yourself high in the mountains. 

Blissfully peaceful even in the summer, the road to the top of mount Pantokrator or across the island towards Paleocastritsa gives startling views around every bend and eventually takes you out onto the Northwest of the island with its maze of traditional villages and some beautiful wide sandy beaches.

Nissaki

Nissaki is one of the few areas in Corfu that has, despite an increase in tourism, retained its original charm and character. The small beach of Nissaki village does get busy during the summer months but it’s served by good tavernas and has a new watersports jetty, certainly worth a visit.

Kaminaki

A tiny hamlet nestling beneath the shadow of Mount Pantokrator, picture postcard material when viewed from the sea with a sweet pebbly beach a couple of tavernas and a small selection of water sports.

Kalami Bay

The whole of the north-east coast of Corfu is affectionately known as Durrell County and it is here at Kalami that Lawrence Durrell wrote his book ‘Prosrero’s Cell’. Since his day Kalami has changed into a fairly bustling quaint resort but is still one of the prettiest bays along the coast and the ducks at The White House offer some insight into how totally unspoilt this area once was.

Kouloura

Viewed from the top, Kouloura is a charming circular harbour, still totally unspoilt and tranquil. This tiny hamlet boasts just one taverna and no shops or holiday accommodation and is a perfect place to unwind.

The gracious house on the headland is privately owned by an Italian family and dates from the 17th century. Architecturally interesting, the house is part mansion and part fortification, this area of Corfu being strategically important in times of trouble.

Top Beaches in Corfu

Corfu, one of Greece's most beloved islands, is renowned for its stunning beaches that cater to every type of traveller. From the golden sands and vibrant atmosphere of Glyfada to the dramatic cliffs and clear waters of Paleokastritsa, Corfu's coastline offers a diverse array of beach experiences. 

Whether you're looking for lively beach bars, secluded coves, family-friendly shores, or opportunities for water sports, Corfu's beaches provide a perfect setting for a memorable Mediterranean escape. 

The island's natural beauty, combined with its rich history and welcoming hospitality, makes Corfu a top destination for beach lovers from around the world. 

Learn more about the best beaches in Corfu.

Best Places to see in Corfu

Corfu, a gem in the Ionian Sea, offers a rich tapestry of activities for visitors. Explore the UNESCO-listed Old Town, with its Venetian architecture, narrow streets, and historic sites like the Old Fortress. 

Enjoy the island's stunning beaches, such as Paleokastritsa and Glyfada, perfect for relaxation and water sports. Discover Corfu’s lush landscapes with a hike up Mount Pantokrator or a visit to the scenic village of Pelekas. 

Don't miss the Achilleion Palace, a beautiful neoclassical villa with breath-taking views. Lastly, indulge in local cuisine at charming tavernas, savouring traditional Corfiot dishes and fresh seafood.

Corfu seamlessly blends culture, nature, and history, ensuring a memorable stay for every visitor. To see what the island has to offer, learn more about the top things to do in Corfu 

At Ionian and Aegean Island Holidays, our team of experienced and knowledgeable advisors have been helping to create unforgettable holidays to Corfu for over 20 years.

For more information about our carefully selected villas and apartments on Corfu, call us on 0208 459 0777 or email us at [email protected].

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