The Complete Guide to Ithaka

Ithaka must be the most famous but least known of all the Ionian islands. Immortalised by Homer as Journey’s End for Odysseus, conqueror of Troy, this small Ionian Island is often overlooked by travellers in favour of its larger neighbours.

Kefalonia the biggest island in the Ionian was already a popular holiday destination long before the huge success of its own epic romantic adventure, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin by Louis De Bernieres, but for many people Ithaka remains a mythical place, vaguely recalled from school lessons in ancient history.

Nothing could be further from the truth, for the real Ithaka possesses a combination of the natural beauty and culture of all of the Ionian islands rolled into one. 

Many small islands are either perfect for that away from it all holiday, but require an Odyssey to reach, or are so easily accessible that half the world and its dog seem to have discovered them! Ithaka, however, is the perfect compromise, being fortunate enough not yet to have had an airport erected and the influx of mass tourism which that usually brings, but still easily reached by a short boat ride from Kefalonia.

So, what exactly is this secret allure of Ithaka?

Despite the attentions and fierce debates of archaeologists and classic historians, the Odyssey remains as one of the world’s greatest romantic epics, even though it describes an age and events that vanished 3,500 years ago. Perhaps the subtle echoes of Homer’s masterpiece can still be heard in the ancient palaces and the artefacts discovered within their ruined walls. Almost without exception those that have found their way to Ithaka plan to return, such is the magic of those subtle echoes!

However, Ithaka is much more than a sleepy, romantic island locked into a mythical time warp. Odysseus was only the first in a long line of Ithakian men who have sailed across the oceans of the world. This connection with foreign lands means that there is a real cosmopolitan feel to the island that blends with the islanders’ natural hospitality and their spirit of independence. 

Once seen as Kefalonia’s poor relation, Ithaka now has its own administration which allows for more control over the development of their island and recent years have seen major improvements in the infrastructure. Most homes and businesses are owned and run by the islanders themselves and whilst political differences are vigorously expressed (Ithaka is in Greece when all’s said and done!) everyone agrees that the uniqueness of the island must be protected.

Between the island capital, Vathy in the South and village of Stavros in the North, there are five or six other settlements, clinging to the mountain sides or clustered around the picturesque bays of the island’s east coast. Each has its own character and appeal. 

The years of economic emigration, which saw the island population decline from about 15,000 when British rule ended in the mid-19th Century to the present 3,000, seems to have stopped. School registers are rising, new businesses have started and low impact tourism, based on family-owned apartments and traditional villas, is an important growing feature of the local economy.

One of the great joys of Ithaka, especially after crowded urban motorways and long hours trapped in a car is that the island is small enough to drive around in an hour, but big enough to wander off the beaten track and explore the network of old mule paths and shepherds’ trails which are being opened up by a small but enthusiastic group of local people.

Many of the trails lead to natural features straight out of Homer; “Arethusa’s Spring”, the “Nymphs and Eumaios Caves”, “Laertes Field”, all can be easily reached on foot, as well as the shapely if diminutive peak of Aetos, the Eagle, reputedly the site of the hero’s palace, where Penelope waited faithfully for his return. 

Arguably Ithaka’s finest viewpoint, with the Ithaka Channel and Kefalonia on one side and island dotted waters of the inner Ionian Sea on the other, the ascent involves a short, sharp climb passing the impressive Cyclopian defensive walls. Other tracks wind through natural oak woodland and olive groves to old windmills, ruined Byzantine churches, their frescoes faded but still glorious and unspoilt coves.

Nightlife on the island revolves around the plateias or squares. Every village has one and throughout the summer a series of religious festivals are celebrated. These all-night affairs, where the wine flows freely and songs and traditional dancing are enjoyed by the whole community, young and old, should not be missed.

These “Panagiria” are not contrived tourist occasions full of Zorba wannabes and plate smashing, but merely the Greeks doing what they do best, providing hospitality and enjoying themselves! Ithaka is neither a ‘grand’ not ‘in’ holiday destination, at least in the context of the trade writers’ world of hyperbole and fashion, nor is it a small island lost in time and obsessed with an ancient myth.

 It has taken on board the trappings of everyday life in modern Europe, ATMs, internet cafes, satellite television, good communications and last but not least, modern plumbing! New cars are readily available to hire, road surfaces have been improved, restaurants and shops modernised, air conditioning and swimming pools have been installed, but in the process has not lost sight of its soul. It is an island where a holiday can easily become a way of life!

Vathy

Vathy is one of the most spectacular natural harbours in Greece. Almost invisible from the sea, its narrow fjord-like entrance, guarded by twin headlands, each with the ruins of Venetian gun emplacements, is protected by the huge bulk of Mt Neritos, the island’s highest peak. Once inside the bay opens up to reveal a small town clustered around the far shore.

Although much of Vathy was devastated in the great earthquake of 1953, when many of its classic Venetian style mansions were destroyed, planning controls have ensured that the town has kept its character with well-proportioned houses, carefully painted facades and traditional roofs. It is the administrative capital and main ferry port of Kefalonia and Patras on the mainland. The countryside in the immediate vicinity is glorious. Quiet lanes and tracks lead up the fertile valley behind the town from where newly opened footpaths can be taken to places straight out of Homer’s Odyssey.

The town itself contains fascinating alleyways and stepped paths often lined with the walls of elegant ruins, their archways and windows covered in wisteria.

Vathy is excellent for shopping. There are three banks with cash machines and foreign exchange facilities, a post office, health centre, museums and a theatre. Throughout the summer, concerts, plays and events are held here or in the main plateia and in July and August there is often a street market where local wines, olives, olive oil and honey can be bought.

Around Vathy there are many coves within easy walking distance or a short drive; perhaps the best is the secluded Gidakhi beach which can be reached by a delightful stroll through pine trees and a unique tree heather forest or thirty-five minutes by water taxi. The water taxis leave in the morning and return in the late afternoon.

Gidakhi has a stunning white pebble beach, like the majority of beaches on Ithaka, with one taverna serving drinks and light traditional snack as calamari, salads and sandwiches. 

Other beaches worth visiting in the South are Filiatro, Minimata, Skinos and Sarakiniko. There are also regular boat trips to the inner islands, like Atokos and Kalamos. Self-drive boats can also be hired for further exploration of the coastline. Learn more about the best beaches in Ithaka.

Only two kilometres from Vathy is the Cave of Nymphs, a cave steeped in myth and history and where, legend has it the Naiads, or Water Nymphs lived, who were worshipped by the ancient Greeks. It is also believed that it was here that Odysseus hid the gifts he had brought with him from the island of the Phaeacians after his return from Troy and his two-year wanderings.

Perachori

Also well worth a visit is Perachori, a spectacularly situated village on the side of a mountain provides superb views across the inner Ionian Sea to the mainland hills and a number of 15th Century churches with preserved frescoes. Perachori is famous for its excellent local wine and holds a wine festival every year at the end of August.

Perachori is also the gateway to the ancient capital of the island, Paliochora or Epano Chorio with its impressive defensive architecture, stone houses and ruined Byzantine churches. This ancient settlement remained the capital of the island until the 16th century when development began closer to the coast and Vathy began to take shape.

On summer evenings everyone makes their way to the plate beside the harbour, the road is closed off to traffic except where children on their bicycles race ahead of their parents enjoying a traditional ‘volta’ or stroll before their evening meal.

Agios Ioannis

This tiny village on the east coast has one of the best beaches around. A recent landslide means you have to park a bit further up the road, but it’s only 5 minutes down to the sea. There are plenty of car parking spaces.  There’s a big house above the beach, owned by a millionaire, he’s even got ostriches wandering around in the garden! The water is a bit cooler here which can be an advantage on a really hot summer’s day. Ithaka is virtually two islands, connected by a narrow ridge with Mountt Aetos at its centre.

Although small, the island is diverse and there is even an amicable North/South divide amongst the inhabitants, with talk of border controls and passports between the two halves! While Vathy is the cosmopolitan hub of the south, the North is very different in character, although it shares a similar mountainous interior.

Stavros

Stavros is the second largest village on the island and is famous for its summer fiesta which lasts for two days (non-stop!). There’s always a live band playing a mixture of traditional Greek songs and pop.

Everyone joins in the dances and it doesn’t matter if you don’t know the steps. Even the old grannies boogie when they change to rock!

Stavros is the central village of northern Ithaka and has a small selection of tavernas and traditional fish restaurants, shops and a bank with an ATM. There is also an excellent but very small archaeological museum where the curator speaks excellent English and will be happy to answer any queries you may have.

Exogi

From Stavros you can drive up a twisty mountain road to this tiny hill village (whose name means the far or out place). It’s a fairly sleepy little place nowadays but worth a visit for the fantastic views and the mysterious pyramids above the village. 

They were built by an eccentric poet who apparently also buried treasure somewhere nearby. He carved coded clues into the rocks and walls all around which, if deciphered will lead you to the hoard. No-one’s managed it yet! There’s also another festival here in the summer – but only for one day this time.

Pilicata

One kilometre north of Stavros, excavations on this hillside which is between the bays of Polis and Frikes brought to light remains of a small Bronze Age settlement. The finds unearthed there reinforce the theory that the ancient city of Ithaka lies somewhere in the vicinity.

Kioni

The pretty village of Kioni escaped most of the destruction of the earthquake of 1953 and strict planning regulations have preserved the Venetian architecture of the settlement. 

The tiny harbour with its cluster of waterfront tavernas and shops is still used by traditional fishing boats, as well as being a popular port of call for visiting yachts.There are little beaches all around the harbour and a bigger one on the far side, near the old windmills, called Cemetery beach. Although, don’t worry, the graveyard is positioned well back from the shore! Naturally, Kioni also has a festival.

Anoghi

If you feel like a bit of exercise, there’s a superb old mule track, now a footpath which climbs all the way up the wooded mountainside to the village of Anoghi. The present settlement in this village dates from 16th Century but the original 13th Century village, now ruined, lies a little higher up the hill. 

The church here, despite its unremarkable exterior contains some of the best frescoes in the region. To gain entry to the church the village Kafenion, next to the Venetian bell tower will supply you with a key. The Kafenion is also worth a visit barely having changed in a hundred years.

This completely authentic meeting place was chosen as the model for the Kafenion in the recent film of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.

Frikes

From Stavros, the road leads down to the sleepy waterfront village of Frikes with a choice of several tavernas, two beautifully preserved windmills and a picturesque location, the village is a popular choice with our visitors to the north of Ithaka. You can catch a daily ferry from here to Fiskardo and Vasiliki. There are boats to rent and further up the coast, only easily accessible by sea is Marmakada beach. There’s a tiny island just offshore which has a chapel on it and a large flock of chickens.

The farmer rows out every day to feed them and collect the eggs. The reason he keeps his hens out there is that there are many pine martens on the main island and they like nothing better than to bite off and eat a chicken’s head, which doesn’t help with egg laying.

Levki

On the opposite side of Niritos, in a spectacular location overlooking the Ithaka Channel and the mountains of Kefalonia is the village of Levki, which straddles the main road. Levki means white and each year just before Easter the inhabitants get together with their buckets of whitewash and repaint the entire village!

They are also very proud of their gardens and each plot is a riot of bougainvillea, jasmine, citrus trees and geraniums. Levki also has strong links with Britain. During the last war and following the invasion of the Ionian Islands by the Axis forces, the village was used as a base by the Greek Resistance. Outwardly it remained much as before, a sleepy settlement of farmers and smallholders quietly going about its business and therefore of little interest to the Italian and German occupiers.

However, there were more than just the odd goat or sheep in the old barns and store sheds in the surrounding vineyards and olive groves. Escaped allied prisoners, shot down pilots and members of the Special Operation Executive, from all over the eastern Mediterranean, but particularly Crete, were hidden by the villagers, whilst en route back to the United Kingdom. 

When the village was destroyed in the great earthquake Britain gave money, labour and materials for its reconstruction, in gratitude for this unsung and highly dangerous contribution to the allied war effort. Most visitors pass through this village on their way to Vathy.

Best Places to visit in Ithaka

Rich in myth and natural beauty, Ihaka offers numerous captivating attractions. Visit Vathy, the charming capital with a picturesque harbour and the Archaeological Museum. 

Relax on Filiatro and Gidaki beaches, known for their crystal-clear waters. Explore the quaint fishing village of Kioni and the ancient Anogi Village with its impressive church. In Stavros, see the Odysseus Museum and Pilikata archaeological site. 

Enjoy the historical Dexa Beach and the serene Kathara Monastery with stunning views. Ithaka’s blend of culture, history, and scenic landscapes makes it a must-visit Ionian destination. Ithaka's blend of cultural heritage, natural beauty, and tranquil ambiance makes it a must-visit destination.

Learn more about things to do in Ithaka.

Best Beaches in Ithaka

Ithaka, the legendary home of Odysseus, boasts a selection of stunning beaches that enchant visitors with their natural beauty and serene atmosphere. From the popular, crystal-clear waters of Filiatro Beach to the remote and pristine Gidaki Beach, Ithaka offers a diverse range of coastal experiences. 

Whether you're seeking bustling shores with amenities or secluded coves for quiet relaxation, the island's beaches provide the perfect setting for a memorable escape in the Ionian Sea.

Learn more about Ithaka's best beaches.

We offer a comprehensive range of stylish accommodation options across Ithaka, featuring a variety of villas, apartments and boutique hotel located both in the northern and southern parts of the island.

Our experienced, knowledgeable team have over 20years experience in finding our guests find the perfect holiday on Ithaka. To us at Ionian & Aegean Island Holidays, this is not just another Greek island; it is a place steeped in culture and history, promising unforgettable diverse experiences creating memories that will last a lifetime.

To learn more about what this amazing Island has to offer and to explore our superb range of diverse accommodation, please contact our team at 0208 459 0777 or via email at [email protected].