Vathy is one of the more spectacular natural harbours in Greece. Almost invisible from the sea, its narrow fjord  like entrance, guarded by twin headlands, each with the ruins of Venetian gun emplacements, is protected by the huge bulk of Mount Neritos, the island’s highest peak.  The town itself contains fascinating alleyways and stepped paths often lined with the walls of elegant ruins, their archways and windows covered in wisteria. The wonderful Archaeological Museum, housing collections dating back to the Mycenaean period, is also based in Vathy. The countryside in the immediate vicinity is glorious. Quiet lanes and tracks lead up the fertile valley behind the town from where newly opened footpaths can be taken to places straight out of Homer’s Odyssey.

Ithaka is two islands connected by the narrow ridge of Aetos. The north ‘island’, dominated by Mount Neritos, with the historic Kathara monastery and the Venetian village of Anoghi on its broad flanks, has a whole series of sheltered bays on its eastern shore. Stavros is the largest of several settlements scattered across the north end of the island. The large central plateia beside the church is pleasantly tree-lined and contains the only statue of Odysseus on the island. From Stavros the road drops down a valley to the tiny harbour and port of Frikes with its scattering of waterside tavernas. Beyond Frikes, the road twists around a series of delightful bays, before a short sharp ascent reveals the picturesque and atmospheric harbour of Kioni, with its colourful cafés and harbour side tavernas. The surrounding coves and bays around Kioni are beautiful places to enjoy but most are only accessible by sea, therefore hiring a motor boat is necessary.